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Post by psykerchild on Feb 18, 2015 0:40:02 GMT -5
So a couple of years ago I threw together a balsa Thunderhawk for an Apoc game to combat the only other Supersize unit that was going to be on the field, a Harridan. Didn't really work out that well, but hey I got a nifty flying box out of the dealy. This led to some not-so-deep thoughts about where I could go from there with wooden, slightly less expensive vehicles. For my second, and so far last effort I chose the Stormraven. Ugly flying trapezoid thingumy, expensive as heck hunk of plasticrack, right? There had to be a better design than that... and cheaper too. From there I eventually found this design, and luckily the guy had already modeled and come up with a pattern: www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/199938-xeones-stormraven-template/ Sweet looker I thought. Long story short, I managed to get one of these assembled for about 80% of the cost of a plastic Stormraven, and now that I have the tools and experience I'm fairly certain I could cut that down to 50% or less. The real question I have for y'all is it worth finishing the model from where it stands? (see pictures below) I have all the bits that I need to weaponize it properly, but would people play across the table from it if it were finished? There was some debate earlier on this topic so I'd figured I'd ask before dedicating time to finishing it. Specifically I'm thinking about using it for the May tournament in a Blood Angel formation. Below are some side-by-side pictures of the variant and a normal Stormraven, Thunderhawk's just in the background for kibitizing at. Apologies for the poor picture quality. |
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Post by psykerchild on Feb 18, 2015 0:40:46 GMT -5
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Post by psykerchild on Feb 18, 2015 0:43:43 GMT -5
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Post by nedley on Feb 18, 2015 0:48:32 GMT -5
That'd be really cool! I'd love to play against that.
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Post by nogle on Feb 18, 2015 8:06:28 GMT -5
Personally, I'm not the biggest fan of scratch built units that there are GW models for. I'm too big of a fan boy and love GW's stuff so much I almost always think the GW looks better. If the TO allowed it, then I guess I'm ok with it.
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Post by dudeisuck on Feb 18, 2015 8:21:46 GMT -5
If you put a little more effort into kinda fleshing out the line, put some rivets, gaps for doors, etc, I don't see why people would have a problem.
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Post by Crispy on Feb 18, 2015 8:25:50 GMT -5
Right now, depending on your next steps, I could see this build go either way. The render is a little 2 dimensional.
My line usually comes down to, "does the model take you out of the visual moment? Is it cohesive, blending into the other models of the range, or does it stick out?"
That said, I'd like to encourage you to keep going. Even if this one doesn't turn out great, the experience will help later on.
In that vein, one suggestion: If you were to add plasticard armor plating (I would put it where the light red render is painted), I think it would add a 3 dimensionality to the model. Right now, many of the surfaces are too flat. With plating, you add more depth. Also, rivets go a long way to break up those flat areas.
but, it's your model too. Go with what you like. I knew a shipbuilder (actual ships) that hated rivets on models. He figured that Navy ships didn't show rivets on the hull, so his space ships didn't need them either. He cut them all off. To each his own.
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Post by nettik189 on Feb 18, 2015 12:19:21 GMT -5
Personally, I'm not the biggest fan of scratch built units that there are GW models for. I'm too big of a fan boy and love GW's stuff so much I almost always think the GW looks better. If the TO allowed it, then I guess I'm ok with it. Coming from the guy that runs Khorne bezerkers as regular SM and chaos and 30k 
For the model itself, I would get some dowels and sand the tip so they look like missles and put them under the wing. I can see you using this at a big gt and your opponent saying they cant see the launchers bc they are on the back of the vehicle on the top.
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Post by nogle on Feb 18, 2015 12:50:19 GMT -5
heck yea, Neil!
BTW, the design looks like a scaled down thunderhawk transporter.
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Post by psykerchild on Feb 18, 2015 14:50:40 GMT -5
@everyone: Thanks for the input and it looks like I'll be finishing the model up then! @nedly: On the table at May, pending TO approval! nogle: Typically that's my opinion too, in fact at the beginning of the process I had intended to build something more along the lines of the usual model, heck I even own two of them, but I saw this model and liked the multi-planar look. It kind of looks like a stooping hawk on the stand. Ah the poor, maligned, never seen Thawk Transporter... dropping Land Raiders from the sky! My favorite tactic! dudeisuck and Crispy: At this point the process is probably going to go something like: fill gaps and crevices with greenstuff, add details like doors and other cosmetics by carving them into the wood, swap the missile launchers for twin-linked multi-melta somewhere near the nose, seal using some sort of plastizer or epoxy, then paint per my usual style. Probably some cleaning up of woodwork too. How thick does plasticard usually end up being? Somebody else's version: i494.photobucket.com/albums/rr302/teohell/IMG_058.jpgnettik189: They're actually there! You can sorta see 'em in the first of the second posting of pictures, the topside missile launcher is going to end up getting stripped off and replaced with the multi-melta somewhere more forward. Otherwise to get double pen the poor Stormraven'd have to be practically nose deep in whatever it happend to be shooting. |
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Post by Crispy on Feb 18, 2015 15:30:14 GMT -5
Plastic for sales signs are generally 1/32inches thick. Most art stores will also carry 1/16, and I order 1/8 online.
To save a few bucks, Apoxiescuply (search ebay) is like greenstuff, but solidifies rock hard and is a bit cheaper than greenstuff. Because of the purpose, the strength may work out better for you.
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Post by dudeisuck on Feb 18, 2015 16:12:59 GMT -5
Honestly, covering the sides in plasticard that you cut out by hand would be quicker and easier to do than carving the actual wood. Also, you mess up on plasticard, cool, use it for something else, mess up on wood, start from square one. Just glue the plasticard on the sides of the wood frame once you get it looking like you want the sides to.
Rivets can be easily accomplished with liquid greenstuff.
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Post by nedley on Feb 19, 2015 1:15:21 GMT -5
If you're looking for a really good way to get Rivets, Britta Water Filters are like a 50/50 mix of charcoal and plastic pellets, those things work perfect. There's a little section on it in the IA master class volume 1 book.
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Post by psykerchild on Feb 19, 2015 1:29:29 GMT -5
Huh, I'll keep all that in mind. "Found" modeling!
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